I rearranged the power supply and body of my FTM-500 because I noticed that even if the radio had been off, if I left the PS on it created enough heat for the 500's fan to come on and stay on when powered up. That was with the radio body stacked directly on top of the PS... So I split them up onto their own shelves. I then also made #3Dprint risers that have a hex pattern for better ventilation, particularly on the PS which has most of its vents on the underside. #hamradio
Je ne pensais pas qu'il y avait un public si prompt à réagir auprès des fans. À peine l'ai je ajouté que j'ai eu quatre commandes à la suite.
C'est la première fois que je faisais de l'animé, et c'était plutôt agréable.
À moins que ce soit d'écouter la chanson 4 ou 5 fois par jour depuis deux semaines.
C'est le retour du printemps pour quelques jours, et qui dit Printemps dit jardinage. Pour des jardinières "nues" achetées par ma chérie, elle a mis une bache qu'elle va pouvoir remplir de terre. Pour permettre l'évacuation de l'eau, j'ai rapidement modélisé (15 minutes) des petites bondes (que je peux éventuellement raccorder à des restes tuyaux d'arrosage automatique). C'est trois fois rien, mais ça a été tellement rapide à faire, merci la technologie et l'impression 3d. #3dprint#fusion360
I left my #Prusa 3D printer unattended for a couple of hours, and it completely screwed up and the extruder got completely encapsulated in a 1cm thick glob of PLA filament. This is what it looked like after half an hour of delicate unglobbing. Another half hour of cleaning and reassembling and it was working fine again. Not sure what went wrong - PETG builds are nearly always perfect, but I'm building something that should be a little more flexible, hence the PLA.
Well, I think I've run out of ideas to get filament out of the hot end of a old 3D printer I have..... worse correct hot end cost more then the printer did when it was new. I might just try a different hot end, but it would be really nice to find one that at least has the mounting holes in the right place.
I am really thinking the printer has just become parts.
Maybe I can take a very small drill bit, and try to drill out the filament.
🎶 VIES
🎵 TOUTES VIES MORTELLES
🎶 ATTEIGNENT INÉVITABLEMENT TÔT OU TARD LEUR DATE DE PÉREMPTION
🎵 LES ÂMES
🎶 COURENT À LEUR PERTE
🎵 EN FEU
🎶 POUR UNE DURÉE EXAGÉRÉMENT LONGUE
Raphael, de #BaldursGate3, imprimé en résine et peint main pour un client.
Un professeur polonais. Sans doute pour faire peur aux élèves. Ou demander des conseils stratégiques.
Last week my #VIC20, my first computer and still one of my favourite retrocomputers fell on the floor from a shelf. The 40-year old ABS case is brittle and broke right on top of the user and cassette ports. The Run Stop key also fell off 😩 #retrocomputing#repair#thread#commodore
When we bought this Ikea Hållbar litter bin I instantly knew that it's only a matter of time before one of us throws the inner frame together with the bin content to the garbage.
And on last friday I fulfilled my own prophecy.
Luckily I found out there already is a model ready to #3DPrint, so I don't have to do it myself. https://www.printables.com/model/631240-ikea-hallbar-22l-holding-ring
Je viens de publier un mignon modèle de petite brique de jus/lait qui a un vrai bouchon qui referme le contenant. Idéal pour stocker des paillettes ou des male tears
Tor prosty, długość to 16LU (lego unit, 16mm) podwójny zwykły prosty, czyli 256mm (a z wypustkami dodatkowe cm), dzięki ułożeniu po przekątnej da się ;)
Na zdjęciu numer 1 leci testowy wydruk jednego krótkiego toru wg poprawionego designu oraz 4 płytek łączących tory lub pozwalających budować coś obok nich ;-)
Zdjęcie numer 2, to tor, który drukowałem od spodu.
Warto podkreślić, że robiłem wydruk bez podpór na całej długości oraz z niestandardowym ustawieniem "bridge angle".
Czasami brakuje mi precyzyjnych ustawień bridgowania.
I'll be high-temperature/high-speed modding my 3D printers soon.
This Ender 3 clone (Voxelab Aquila X2) is already running great with an all metal heat-break and CHT clone nozzle, but I can't push it too far until I deal with some micro wobble. I have a high temp thermistor, copper heat-block, 70W heater, as well as some parts that should eliminate ringing in the Z lead screws (OldHam couplers). Really I'm just waiting on some metal supports for the frame. #3dPrint#3DPrinting#Voxelab#Ender3
Sometimes I talk about stuff I #3DPrint to someone and they will ask me if I plan to "finish" the part. I assume its primarily because they think about 3d prints for cosplays or other forms of prop making.
Priming/sanding/painting is typically reserved for parts that you don't want to look 3d printed, and its not done en masse because its a very time consuming and labor intensive process. In layman's terms: It fucking sucks.
Its better to lean into the 3d printed aesthetic than it is to try to sand, bondo puddy, sand, putty, sand, primer, sand, primer, sand, paint, sand, paint, sand, and paint a part.