neal33

@neal33@lemm.ee

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Issue with Klipper on Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus

Hi all Lately, my printer has been throwing tantrums. It happens that when it starts up, it refuses to connect to Klipper on my RasberryPi. I don’t know if it’s because I’m using a smart plug to turn off my printer or if it’s an update that has a broken roof. The only solution I found was to flash the original firmware...

neal33,

I had a similar issue when I initially installed Klipper on my Ender 3 S1 (not the plus). It would not connect unless I fully restarted Octoprint whenever I turned on the printer. The change I needed to make was go into settings in Octoprint (though I assume its similar on other front ends), and add the following settings:
Serial Port: /tmp/printer
Baud Rate: 11520

If that is not the case for you, try to add some more details. Do you have the config file correct?

neal33,

Just curious, when making this how much tolerance did you account for? I want to make some for baseball teams, but wasn’t sure how much to add.

neal33,

Thats a very fair point. I’ve done tolerance tests with mine and can get away with 0 with some encouragement and .05 just fine. Thanks!

neal33,

.05 on my ender 3 s1 sounds perfect based on the tolerance tests I’ve run. Thanks!

neal33,

Something is blowing in. It’s very windy here. Only gets like this before a storm.

Constantly Adjusting Z Height Offset

Good day! I am running a Klipperized Sovol SV06+ and have been getting some really great prints. I am however having an issue where lately I am having to adjust the Z offset with each new print. I did a first layer calibration and got a perfect result but after a couple prints I saw I needed to lower it to get a good first...

neal33,

What type of material are you printing? Could be the material is eating away at the brass nozzle causing you to need to adjust the z offset.

neal33,

Shouldnt be the filament then. I would make sure the probe is fully secured like the other comment suggested. Good luck, that sounds frustrating! I need to adjust mine, but usually after printing for a couple weeks.

neal33,

Similar results with my Ender 3 S1. Highly recommend!

neal33,

Even if it wasn’t part of the software that would take minutes to splice together assuming you have access to all feeds (which they do considering it’s on their property).

neal33,

Do it! I recently purchased one and love it. Feel free to ask questions if you have any.

neal33,

Great for fixing items around the house. Anything that is plastic or could be replaced with plastic can usually be printed. Also great for hardware and jigs. I’ve had mine for a bit over a month now and have been constantly running it. Check out printables or thingiverse to get an idea of what people are printing. Both are websites people upload models to.

"Wood" staining, sanding, and clear coating?

Recently did a test print with Creality Pla-wood. The smell during the print is amazing, I’m kind of hooked. I printed something flat, was easy to sand and stain looks incredible, 100% looks like wood. It’s been 48h and no matter how much I wipe the thing it’s still tacky / leaves a little residue on my hands. Do I just...

neal33,

How long did you leave the stain on before wiping it?

neal33,

I think that might be your issue. Gel stain from minwax should be wiped off after 3 minutes. Anything longer can cause the issue you are experiencing. I would try to wipe/sand off the finish and start again. On a side note, we need to do that to our banister/railing in this house. The previous owner of the house apparently liked the THICK look of the gel stain.

neal33,

Oh dang, I misread another comment you made. With regular stain the longer you leave on usually the darker it just makes it appear. But as long as you fully wiped off the excess after it should have worked out. That said I’ve only used stain on actual wood. Haven’t tried printing wood PLA yet.

neal33,

We make a homemade version of the canes sauce. It’s just a bunch of standard condiments. Before that I had family mail me bags of it from Zaxby’s (same sauce). They would sell them massive camelback like bladders full of sauce.

neal33,

There are European based seed banks. Also they share a border with the Netherlands.

neal33,

That is a lot of money to leave on the table - I wonder if he worked something out with the Nats for a buyout. If not, this is great for the future of the Nats. Opens up a significant amount of cash the next few years.

neal33,

Well so much for that thought: [Bob Nightengale] Stephen Strasburg will continue be paid $35 million annually through 2026 (with about $11.4M deferred each year). He then will receive $26.6M in 2027, 2028 and 2029 in his owed deferred payments. The contract was not insured, leaving the #Nats on the hook for its entirety.

neal33,

What do you consider performing better if emulated? Most switch games look and perform better on PC already due to upscaling. Some obviously have issues rendering though.

neal33,

What a horrible last month or so for Angels fans. Struggle after a trade deadline where you were buyers instead of getting something in return for Ohtani. Ohtani has a rough month where he ultimately has a torn UCL. Trout goes back on the IL this night as well. Who knows what the team looks like next season. Sorry Angels bros!

neal33,

If you live near a Microcenter you can get it for even cheaper: microcenter.com/…/specialoffer3dprinter3i.aspx
This deal is not always limited to new customers. I bought a month or so ago on sale at this price and I shop there regularly.

neal33,

I have the S1 (non pro version). I purchased it around a month ago and have been loving it! Sure, it requires a little bit of tinkering, but ultimately if I have the z-offset correct for the first layer, it prints great. I imagine there are quicker printers out there, and ones that have more features. But for an entry printer, I cant complain. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out!

neal33,

Run the auto level on the printer. Once it finishes it will zero out where it thinks the z is. You can then adjust it down to the correct level. Too high, stuff won’t adhere to the plate. Too low, it squishes it. Just right, and you get the picture.
You can use a piece of paper as a guide or a feeler gauge if you have one. I’d imagine the steps are very similar on the s1 pro.

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