Been tracking down a mysterious behaviour of a couple of Ikea Trådfri bulbs in our #HomeAssistant setup: at seemingly random times, unprompted by any automation or other obvious trigger, they turn on at very dim brightness. Logbook simply shows “turned on” without any additional context as to what did it.
Now I’m at the point where I’m trying to create an automation that captures this event and turns the light off, which I’m fine with if it works, but would still love to know why it happens.
@tuomas_h Dunno if this helps, but for us automations set in the Ikea Home Smart (1) app seem to turn them on at min brightness and slowly ramp up. So could be a ghost automation somewhere in there?
Ich habe ein bisschen Bammel davor, meine (bis auf die aktuellen Probleme mit #MQTT und #evcc) ganz ok funktionierende @homeassistant -Instanz umzuziehen.
Aber muss ja, wenn ich etwas mehr Kontrolle bekommen möchte und die nervigen Probleme mit @evcc unter Kontrolle bekommen will, da die beiden sich ja offensichtlich nicht ausstehen können und man Null Support erhält, wenn man evcc als Addon unter #Homeassistant betreibt.
Bei Problemen kannst Du so jederzeit auf das alte HA zurück: neues HA aus, Netzwerkkabel in altes wieder rein
Ich habe schon ein paarmal von HA-YouTubern gehört, das das Umziehen von HA z.B. von Raspi auf Proxmoxx problemlos funktionierte. Bei einem sogar mit einigen HACS Komponenten.
#HomeAssistant is going well, but I need to move all the devices to another network SSID and password. Searching for how to do this is basically full of "why would you do that?" but no solutions that don't involve manually diving in to the config "secrets" - followed by replies saying "don't do that!" Well, security is one reason. I can't be alone here, right?
@vik Oh don't get me wrong I'm absolutely agreeing that splitting your iot and normal WiFi is a good idea. When I did it with my network I had far more iot devices than not, and the iot devices were going to be a real hassle to move, so I didn't move them.
Instead I blocked that network off from the Internet and made a new one for my non-iot and moved those instead.
Unless you mean you have reasons to want to keep your ssid as your main network? Fair enough if so! Just trying to help 🙏
Warto kupić Google Nest Hub 2 jako sterownik do Home Assistant? Jest tanie i nawet jako "tablet" do alarmu Satel wychodzi ze 4 razy taniej niż ichni kontroler na Windows CE który na dodatek jest na kablu (co ma prawie same zalety tyle że trzeba ciągnąć kabel).
HA ładnie mi się integruje też z Fritz! wiec wygląda ciekawie a osprzęt jest dość tani #homeassistant#smarthome#satel
@pee yes I use the announcements for the geyser, so that if I know power is going off in 30 mins time, I turn the geyser on (but our geyser stays off until we want to heat it up - it is only 100L).
@pee not sure if my code at https://github.com/Danie10/gadgeteerza-homeassistant will help give any pointers. Big thing is to test it in parts, first the trigger works, then a notification. Also need to be sure the notification devices are actually logged in and connected - can see that in HA's Developer Tools and STATES.
I installed a wall box near the front door, under a nearby electrical socket (see below)
When the company installed the front door, I asked them to install a UTP cable from the door lock mechanism to the socket.
Bought the materials above (Aliexpress for the boards, Conrad for the power suppy).
Connected the mains to the breaker (for emergency switch-off)
Connected the cables from the breaker to the 24V power supply
Connected the cables from the power supply to the ESP32 board, door solenoid relay and ESP32’s relay. Luckily, I didn’t need to install 5V power supply for the ESP board, because it also works with 24V.
Here’s the doodle of the connecting scheme:
doodle of the electrical schemeHere’s the original connecting scheme from Innotherm (door manufacturer), in Slovenian: It was useful because it reveals which power supply is appropriate (Meanwell MW HDR 30-24).
screenshot of the door lock automation14. Added Aqara Door sensor to the door and connected it my existing Zigbee network using Zigbee2MQTT. It’s for logging when the door is open and for turning on the red status LED on the ESP32 board when the door is opened.
After 6 months, it works great. Kids are satisfied and me too, because this is one of the first usable HomeAssistant projects that involve some electronics and physical devices. It works in 99% of cases.
There are some issues with it though:
The ESP32 board sometimes reboots after unlocking. It seems that the door solenoid relay draws too much current and the voltage from the power supply drops momentarily. Probably I need to add a capacitor to the board power input to smooth the voltage. This is not a big issue, because the board starts working normally after 3 or 4 seconds after the reboot.
Once or twice it happened the esp board relay got stuck in an OFF state. I had to hit it gently with a screwdriver to unstuck it. After that, I reduced the time the door solenoid is opened from 2 to 1 sec. Not sure if it will help. Maybe it’s just a bad relay.
Several times the wifi was down and the board couldn’t communicate with the Home Assistant. It looks like my telco provider’s router is not the best one and it freezes sometimes. Probably I need to buy a better wifi router.
TODO
I have several ideas on how to upgrade the unlocking mechanism:
unlocking with a fingerprint
unlocking with facial recognition
Disclaimer
The links to the products are not affiliate links and I don’t receive any compensation for linking.
The code and the ideas are mostly from HomeAssistant and ESPHome community forums.
To je v resnici reverse social inženiring, limance za infosec-e. Če kdo uspe odkleniti, je sprejet in posvojen v našo družino. Pa v kleti bo nekaj časa. 🤪
It's been a steep learning curve but it's cool that most of the stuff just works (TP-Link #Kasa and #Tapo, #Ikea Zigbee, #Philips#Hue (using the Hue Bridge, not directly connected to my Zigbee coordinator). Some stuff this uses the cloud (but can be used locally), other stuff takes out the cloud entirely. (1/2)
Forget my Stosslüften idea, that won't work probably there. I once was in Singapore, in April. And it rained several times a day, followed by powerful sun and it was very damp outside. And even in the morning it wasn't really cool.
@yeri I have a house with cellar, basement, 1st and 2nd floor. And the floors between those houses are concrete with iron nests in between. A WiFi signal from the basement has a hard time traveling into the 2nd floor, for example.
But somehow Zigbee is super reliable.
The "smart" sockets I have work as repeaters.
On HA's side I have a USB cable, and only then do I have a Zigbee stick. Don't plug the stick in directly, too much computer made RFI. Then one of the older, bulkier smart sockets from IKEA one level above became repeater, automatically. Then another level is the small heating room. And there's another smart plug that controls a "circulation pump". And since 6 months there never was any connection issue, the pump correctly turned on/off by timer. Or via a Zigbee switch on demand. Super reliable for me.
It is interesting to see in #HomeAssistant that the switch from 12V to 24V for my fans is actually increasing the power cost of a print noticeably by more than 10% (Top is the power cost at 24V, bottom at 12V)
But all in all I am still amazed at how little power actually plays into the total cost of a print. #3DJGummikuh
W ostatnim odcinku pierwszego sezonu ICD Weekend Arek i Kuba opowiadają o newsach dotyczacych Facebooka, Apple i AI oraz dzielą się nowymi rekomendacjami aplikacji z F-Droida.
Contemplating adding a SkyConnect Zigbee dongle to our Home Assistant. Seems to be pretty ok, or at least as reliable as Zigbee in general gets. Initially just a couple of basic Aqara sensors to test with. Anything larger will need routers/repeaters for better reach.
@holgerschurig I’ve seen that people prefer that over ZHA. Not exactly sure how it works though. It gets the Z data and then shoves it into Mosquitto from which another part of HA gets it? Sounds a bit complicated? We do have a Mosquitto running already for some other stuff so setup would be easy.
@chakie It might sound complicated, but you as a user won't notice the complication.
The benefit of ZB2MQTT is that it supports way more devices than ZHA. And that they even have a database of supported devices. Together with hints on how to pair them (e.g. what buttons to press how often, or how long, to start the pairing process).
Very work-in-progress, but I have started to document my smart home stuff on my website! This might end up turning into a whole subsection once I figure out how I actually want to organize it, but for now, it’s a dumping ground all on one page. 😅
@derek huzzah! I will say that the Nest camera integration is not really better with the Starling Home Hub and Home Assistant, though it was easier to set up. The cameras are really low frame rate and delayed, though. 😞
You do get all the recognition stuff exported as sensors though, which is dope; for example, you get a “motion” sensor, “unfamiliar face” sensor, and familiar face sensors for every saved face on each camera which opens up a lot of interesting stuff.
@po3mah I ended up relocating the coordinator. There's a bit of metal around where it was mounted so I figured I'd elevate it over all of that and see what happens.
It seems the mesh is reassembling a bit better with this and things are behaving better.
If this ends up being the solution, it's just weird that it suddenly became an issue after several months.
Die Stabilität von @homeassistant hat in den letzten Monaten spürbar gelitten.
Aus irgendwelchen Gründen führt die Instanz jetzt wiederholt (random?) selbstständig Neustarts aus. (Homeassistant selbst, nicht das OS)
Ich werde wohl erstmal von Homeassistant Blue auf Proxmox/HAOS umziehen, damit ich die Dienste entzerren kann.
Leider ist #Homeassistant auch hier eher wenig nutzerfreundlich und macht es sehr schwer, Fehler zu finden.
Oh, das ist tricky. Die ganzen Backtraces zeigen einfach nur den Zustand der vielen Python-Prozesse. Sie selbst sind an sich nicht der Fehler, nur Zusatzinfo.
Der eigentliche Fehler jedoch ist dies:
Fatal Python error: Segmentation fault
Es trat also ein Fehler INNERHALB von Python selbst auf. Oder ... alternativ, in einem Python-Module, das über in C geschriebene Anteile enthält. Es war also ein Fehler auf C bzw. Maschinensprache. Kein Fehler auf Ebene von Python.
Um sowas zu debuggen, braucht man i.d.R. einen coredump.
Wenn Du so ein *core File irgendwo hast (z.B. im config-Directory), dann attache das auch noch bei dem Bugreport.
Da ich aber ein x86-HAOS Einsetze und nicht wie Du ein ARM-Device habe, kann ich Dir nicht weiterhelfen. Man würde so einen Coredump zusammen mit den python-Binary (mit Debug-Symbolen) in den gdb Debugger laden und dann auf Maschinensprache-Ebene gucken, wo er ausstieg. Aber ich habe ja Dein arm-Python nicht hier, und schon gar nicht mit Debug-Infos.
(Gute Idee übrigens, gleich einen Bugreport anzulegen!)