I'll be high-temperature/high-speed modding my 3D printers soon.
This Ender 3 clone (Voxelab Aquila X2) is already running great with an all metal heat-break and CHT clone nozzle, but I can't push it too far until I deal with some micro wobble. I have a high temp thermistor, copper heat-block, 70W heater, as well as some parts that should eliminate ringing in the Z lead screws (OldHam couplers). Really I'm just waiting on some metal supports for the frame. #3dPrint#3DPrinting#Voxelab#Ender3
I was going to get the SV-06 because of its linear rails, but Sovol neglected to include a <$10 filament runout sensor on that machine. SERIOUSLY SOVOL?!?
Also, the SV-07 is much faster. I could've gotten the SV-06 Plus, which is bigger and comes with a filament runout sensor, but it's a lot more expensive.
My #Ender3 is still sitting on the garage floor. #cursed
I recently upgraded from my perpetually broken #ender3 to a #bambup1s and wowwwwww.
I feel like I was driving a go kart that I had built myself and now I bought myself a Porsche. The price increase was similar 😂
Suddenly printing is fun again! It just works. Nothing goes wrong. All the features I want are there and work perfectly. All the models I wanted to print but never did because I knew they wouldn’t come out right on my old printer I can finally print! And it’s FAST.
Got tired of flailing about trying to find the right allen key / hex key in my Ender 3 tool set, so I made some labels. They came out okay (particularly for being so low effort xD ) so enjoy:
I started seeing occasional ripples on my prints that looked like ringing but a little not? and today I printed something for someone that looked like ringing but was literally in the middle of a long-X-axis path and repeating on every layer despite the shape of the object not conforming to that repeat at all
and now I know a new way to diagnose a bad wheel bearing!
the good news is moving the bad one to the underside of the X-axis gantry solved it for now. also one of the other wheels is on its way out too. :/
the other good news is that these are cheap, but it's annoying that I lost one bearing entirely and was losing a second at the same time.
Gonna go out on a bit of a limb here and make a prediction. In 2024, or possibly 2025, Prusa will release a 'Mini 2' or a 'Mini S+' or something similar. It will be the same as the current Mini, with the following changes:
The extruder will be replaced with the Nextruder, still in a Bowden config.
The control board will be changed to the xBuddy (same as the MK4), and the screen will also be the same as the MK4 one.
This is an interesting idea, but even the #Ender3 has shown us that manufacturers will cut costs even for a few dollars. They would avoid using higher end screens, like the #P1P did, although the X1C vs P1P and #P1S screens are worlds apart.
Also using the same board would almost compromise the higher tier, providing less advantages for purchasing the "higher" tier printers. Although I do agree and build volume is a big thing in what determines the printer I would buy.
Bambu did the opposite by downgrading the screen, but keeping the volume and electronics the same for their cheaper printers.
I printed my custom glow in the dark and black dual color filament by printing an 1.75 mm spiral, changing color during print. Then printed Snorlax with it.
My 3D printer hasn't even shipped yet and I already have a queue of prints I want to do and am trying to figure out how to set up an OctoPi with a webcam to handle remote management of the thing 😅
OK, had to clean up my #ender3, hotend, nozzle and teflon tube totally clogged, replaced nozzle for the first time (I haven't done that since I've got the printer during Covid) - well I should probably take better care of my printer ... everything clogged and baked together ... uff ... this felt like getting a colonoscopy ... (I have never got one, actually ... 😎 )
Diese Version funktioniert, wackelt nicht, schaut direkt von Anfang an auf das Bett und bewegt sich mit der Z-Achse. Kein Support notwendig. Nur ein Teil. Nur eine Schraube für die Befestigung der Kamera.
Evtl. kommt aber eine Justierschraube dran, um den seitlichen Tilt auszugleichen, weil die Klammer unter Spannung etwas biegt.
Having upgraded my Ender 3 v2 to its almost final form with a Creality Sonic Pad (I know about the licensing issues, you don’t need to tell me), I’m now debating going from the direct drive extruder upgrade back to a Bowden tube extruder. I’ve had issues with locating a filament dryer box near the printer and then getting the filament to the printer without it going across and entering the extruder stepper at an extreme angle. Any binding causes the print to get ripples.
Die Kabel-Clips drucke ich abermals aus, dann ist die Baustelle erledigt.
Morgen oder übermorgen kommen die neuen IR Receiver und ich baue dann den KY022 aus. Die Platine mit LED ist zwar gut zum Testen, aber man kann sie einfach nicht gut positionieren.