tomi

@tomi@blog.rozman.info

Endless tinkering, repairing, writing and chasing my own tail. Partnering/Parenting some fellow human beings, some animals and things. Blog account (#Wordpress + #ActivityPub) Languages: English, Slovene

This profile is from a federated server and may be incomplete. Browse more on the original instance.

tomi, to homeassistant

Blog: Bathroom dehumidifying using two sensors and a floating humidity threshold.

Link to the original blog post with a nice text/pictures layout.

The problem:

The bathroom fan is running too long if it’s raining outside.

A year ago I automated the dehumidifying of the bathroom using an extraction fan, Sonoff mini switch, Xiaomi Mi BLE thermometer/humidity sensor and HomeAssistant.

It works great, except in humid and rainy weather. In such cases, the fan runs too long, because it can not reach the manually set humidity threshold.

The solution:

A moving humidity threshold using a second humidity sensor.

HW parts:

SW:

The process:

  1. I resolved how to connect Sonoff ZBMINI to the fan. The fan has 4 connectors: 1. ground, 2. neutral, 3. Phase 1 (power), 4. Phase 2 (a signal to turn it on). Until I connected the Sonoff switch, I used a physical switch to turn the fan on.

I connected the Sonoff switch in parallel to the physical switch. This way I can still use the physical switch to turn the fan on (in case Home Assistant is not working).

The schematics/doodles:

zbmini switch and the wiring schematics for extractor fanThe fan enclosure (without Sonoff):

the extractor fan, cover removedThe Sonoff switch is so small it nicely fits the fan enclosure:

the extractor fan without cover, sonoff zbmini connected 3. I connected Sonoff to my Zigbee network. I had some issues with the range because the bathroom is 10m away from the Zigbee router. Then I added some zigbee smart plugs (routers) nearby to strengthen the mesh.

  1. Then I set up Xiaomi Mi BLE sensors (one in the bathroom, one in the hallway) and ESP32 BLE proxy. Will skip the steps here, maybe this will be another blog post. Nevertheless, any humidity sensor connected to Home Assistant would work.

Home Assistant

  1. I’ve set up a generic hygrostat entity:

home assistant generic hygrostat screenshot The code for it (it should be defined manually in configuration.yaml):

generic_hygrostat:  - name: Kopalnica    unique_id: kopalnica_dehumidifier01    humidifier: switch.kopalnica_stikalo_vent    target_sensor: sensor.atc_kopalnica1_humidity    min_humidity: 30    max_humidity: 80    target_humidity: 65    dry_tolerance: 2    wet_tolerance: 2    device_class: "dehumidifier"    min_cycle_duration:      seconds: 5    keep_alive:      minutes: 3    initial_state: true    away_humidity: 65    away_fixed: True    sensor_stale_duration: 00:15:00
  1. I’ve added the automation for setting a floating humidity threshold:

The automation works like this: It has 2 triggers. The 1st trigger fires if the state of the humidity sensor located in the hallway changes. The 2nd trigger (which is probably not needed) fires every 30 minutes (just to be sure).

Then the target humidity in generic hygrostat (HA) is set to: hallway humidity + 8%.

Why 8% difference? Don’t know, I set it using trial-and-error and it works ok.

home assistant screenshot, automation of the floating humidity thresholdThe code for target humidity needs to be added manually to the automation yaml:

"{{ float(states('sensor.atc_hodnik1_humidity')) + float(8) }}"

Traces

Here’s the example of automation in action. The left trigger (humidity sensor state change) fired:

home assistant log of the automation executionThe result:

The result: a comparison of the fixed vs. floating humidity threshold can be observed on the chart below.

If the generic hygrostat entity in HA is set to a fixed value (e. g. 60%), the fan runs unnecessarily long and it can’t reach the target humidity, see red (1) on the chart below.

If the target humidity adjusts according to the general humidity in the house, it runs less time (2).

The chart below shows the switch from the fixed humidity threshold to floating threshold (21 May around 18:00). See the blue horizontal line (threshold) and purple line (current bathroom humidity). Light blue vertical bars represent when the fan is running:

home assistant chart of bathroom humidity, calculated humidity threshold and indication when the fan is runningConclusions/Key takeaways

  • it took me more than a year to fix this annoying issue of the fan running at night,
  • at the end it was easier to set up the automation than I thought.

Disclaimer

The links to the products are not affiliate links and I don’t receive any compensation for linking.

The code and the ideas are mostly from HomeAssistant and ESPHome community forums.

Hashtags:

https://blog.rozman.info/bathroom-dehumidifying-using-a-moving-humidity-threshold/

zbmini switch and the wiring schematics for extractor fan
the extractor fan, cover removed

tomi, to homeassistant

Link to the original blog post with a nice text/pictures layout.

The problem:

  • I want to see what’s happening around the house, especially if the dog is naught and digging holes.
  • Actually, there is no problem. I just like to tinker.

The solution:

HW parts:

  • esp32 cam (I ordered the variant with USB hat and external antenna)
  • 3Dprinted enclosure
  • USB cable and power supply

SW:

The process:

The camera comes with internal and external antenna. To use the external antenna, a resistor must be resoldered (instructions).

  1. I re-soldered a tiny resistor near the antenna connector to switch the antenna from internal to external. It would be great if the board producer used some kind of jumper instead. I know, the costs.

esp32 cam board ready for soldering, in a viseIt took me quite some time and burned fingers to solder a resistor. It’s probably the size of 0603 (metric). Here’s the photo under a magnifying glass, red circle:

esp32 cam board closeup, with small resistor encircled2. Then I searched for the appropriate case on Printables. I liked this 3dmodel, because it has a stand and a hole for the antenna. I used some remaining filaments of various colours:

3d printed enclosure of the esp32 cam, pink, white,blue colours, from behindI had to enlarge (using a special technique involving a hot drill) the bottom-right hole because the onboard LED on my board was slightly shifted:

3d printed enclosure of the esp32 cam, pink, white,blue colours, front view4. I flashed the board with ESPHome firmware (actually I did it before the assembly). I used an online flasher. I had some issues – I still don’t know which button to hold during the start of the board (left or right). Anyways, after some retries flashing succeded.

ESPHome configuration

Then I searched for various pieces of code on the ESPHome community forums and blogs (1, 2, 3) and came up with this:

ESP32-Cam exposes the following entities:

  • a camera
  • a switch (for the white LED)
  • a switch (for the red status LED)
  • a slider (for the white LED brightness)
  • a switch (for restarting a board)
  • a binary sensor (for the status of the board).
  • it is accessible as a web server on port 8080 (stream) and 8081 (still pictures).

The ESPHome yaml code to achieve above functionalities:

... skipping the first part, wifi connectivity, substitutions etc.esp32_camera:  id: espcam  name: esp-cam  external_clock:    pin: GPIO0    frequency: 20MHz  i2c_pins:    sda: GPIO26    scl: GPIO27  data_pins: [GPIO5, GPIO18, GPIO19, GPIO21, GPIO36, GPIO39, GPIO34, GPIO35]  vsync_pin: GPIO25  href_pin: GPIO23  pixel_clock_pin: GPIO22  power_down_pin: GPIO32  resolution: 1280x1024  jpeg_quality: 10  # max. 63  max_framerate: 10.0fps  idle_framerate: 0.1fps  vertical_flip: False  horizontal_mirror: false  brightness: 2 # -2 to 2  contrast: 1 # -2 to 2  special_effect: none  # exposure settings  aec_mode: auto  aec2: false  ae_level: 0  aec_value: 300  # gain settings  agc_mode: auto  agc_gain_ceiling: 2x  agc_value: 0  # white balance setting  wb_mode: autoesp32_camera_web_server:  - port: 8080    mode: stream  - port: 8081    mode: snapshotoutput:# white LED  - platform: ledc    channel: 2    pin: GPIO4    id: espCamLED# red status light  - platform: gpio    pin:      number: GPIO33      inverted: True    id: gpio_33light:  - platform: monochromatic    output: espCamLED    name: esp-cam light  - platform: binary    output: gpio_33    name: esp-cam ledswitch:  - platform: restart    name: esp-cam restartbinary_sensor:  - platform: status    name: esp-cam status   #slider for lednumber:  - platform: template    name: Camera Led Slider    optimistic: true    min_value: 0    max_value: 100    step: 1    mode: slider    on_value:      then:        lambda: 'id(espCamLED).set_level(x/150);'

Home Assistant

I’ve set up a simple dashboard in Home Assistant that shows idle preview (0.1 fps), uptime, switches for white LED and status led and a slider for adjusting white LED.

home assistant screenshot showing various data about webcamThe image below shows various statuses related to the ESP32 board, like restart switch, firmware, connection status, IP, firmware version and WIFI signal (the code above does not include these entities).

home assistant screenshot showing various data about webcamConclusions/Key takeaways

Except the soldering, this DIY camera is not too difficult to build.

The image quality is ok-ish (1600×1200).

The framerate is okay-ish for special purposes (e. g. door camera, environment camera). I get about 3-5fps in my case (different floor than the wifi router).

It is more stable than my other ‘IP webcam’ app running on Android phones. This app keeps stopping every few days, while ESP32 is stable.

TODO

What still remains is:

  • I’d like to adjust the brightness etc. on the fly (without recompiling the firmware), but I didn’t find the appropriate .yaml code for it.
  • integration in MotionEye (for recording the videos and motion detection) or Frigate (for object detection). I tried to integrated it to MotionEye, but it is very slow or the stream is mostly broken.

Disclaimer

The links to the products are not affiliate links and I don’t receive any compensation for linking.

The code and the ideas are mostly from HomeAssistant and ESPHome community forums.

Hashtags:

https://blog.rozman.info/homemade-esp32-webcam/

esp32 cam board ready for soldering, in a vise
3d printed enclosure of the esp32 cam, pink, white,blue colours, from behind

tomi, to homeassistant

Link to the original blog post with a nice text/pictures layout.

The problem:

  • kids keep forgetting to carry the key to unlock the front door. They never forget to carry their phones though.

The solution:

  • unlocking the front door using a mobile phone

HW parts:

SW:

The process:

  1. I installed a wall box near the front door, under a nearby electrical socket (see below)
  2. When the company installed the front door, I asked them to install a UTP cable from the door lock mechanism to the socket.
  3. Bought the materials above (Aliexpress for the boards, Conrad for the power suppy).
  4. Connected the mains to the breaker (for emergency switch-off)
  5. Connected the cables from the breaker to the 24V power supply
  6. Connected the cables from the power supply to the ESP32 board, door solenoid relay and ESP32’s relay. Luckily, I didn’t need to install 5V power supply for the ESP board, because it also works with 24V.

Here’s the doodle of the connecting scheme:

doodle of the electrical schemeHere’s the original connecting scheme from Innotherm (door manufacturer), in Slovenian: It was useful because it reveals which power supply is appropriate (Meanwell MW HDR 30-24).

the electrical scheme for wiring the door unlocking mechanism7. Fitted everything in the wall box. It was too shallow! I couldn’t hide all the junk with the flat cover that came with a box.

Before fitting:

circuit breaker, power suppy and esp32 board hanging out of the wall boxEverything nicely fit in a box:

circuit breaker, power suppy and esp32 board nicely ft in the the wall box8. I designed and 3D printed a new cover in TinkerCad:

3d model of the wall box cover10. After a 3rd try (of 3D design and printing), all measures were finally correct and I could cover the box (Mastodon post):

wall box cover mounted11. Flashed ESP32 board with ESPHome*, added it to Home Assistant.

(*Actually it wasn’t that simple. The board doesn’t have a data USB connector. I had to buy USB2TTL adapter. I was bitching about it here.)

esp32 board with usb2ttl adapter connectedNevertheless, after the firmware update, I edited .yaml for the board so it exposes:

Main entity:

  • Switch (for controlling relay), connected to GPIO16

Misc. entities:

  • LED light (connected to GPIO 23, to signal when the door is opened)
  • Wifi sensor (for checking the power of Wifi signal, because the esp board is located in a wall box)
  • Uptime (to see the time since the last esp board reset)
  • Restart switch (to remotely restart the board if needed – but until now it wasn’t needed)

.yaml code for ESPHome (gathered from various websites, mainly from ESPHome):

... skipping the first part, wifi connectivity, substitutions etc.light:  - platform: status_led    name: "ESP32-rele01-vrata Led"    restore_mode: ALWAYS_OFF    pin:      number: GPIO23      inverted: Falseswitch:  - platform: gpio    pin: GPIO16    name: "Door lock switch"    inverted: False  # The following can be omitted  - platform: restart    name: ${devicename} restartsensor:  - platform: wifi_signal    name: ${devicename} wifi signal    update_interval: 600s  # human readable uptime sensor output to the text sensor above  - platform: uptime    name: ${devicename} Uptime in Days    id: uptime_sensor_days    update_interval: 60s    on_raw_value:      then:        - text_sensor.template.publish:            id: uptime_human            state: !lambda |-              int seconds = round(id(uptime_sensor_days).raw_state);              int days = seconds / (24 * 3600);              seconds = seconds % (24 * 3600);              int hours = seconds / 3600;              seconds = seconds % 3600;              int minutes = seconds /  60;              seconds = seconds % 60;              return (                (days ? String(days) + "d " : "") +                (hours ? String(hours) + "h " : "") +                (minutes ? String(minutes) + "m " : "") +                (String(seconds) + "s")              ).c_str();time:  - platform: homeassistant    id: homeassistant_time# Text sensors with general information.text_sensor:  # Expose ESPHome version as sensor.  - platform: version    name: $devicename Version  # Expose WiFi information as sensors.  - platform: wifi_info    ip_address:      name: $devicename IP    bssid:      name: $devicename BSSID  # human readable update text sensor from sensor:uptime  - platform: template    name: Uptime Human Readable    id: uptime_human    icon: mdi:clock-start

  1. I’ve put an NFC sticker on the door.

  2. Wrote 2 simple automations that open a relay when the phone touches the NFC sticker and closes it after 1 second:

screenshot of the door unlock automation2nd automation switches the relay off after 1 second (also blinks the red status led on the ESP board):

screenshot of the door lock automation14. Added Aqara Door sensor to the door and connected it my existing Zigbee network using Zigbee2MQTT. It’s for logging when the door is open and for turning on the red status LED on the ESP32 board when the door is opened.

aqara door sensor mounted at the edge of the door15. Added a new control dashboard in Home Assistant for tracking what’s going on with the door:

dashboard in home assistant with various door statusesConclusion

After 6 months, it works great. Kids are satisfied and me too, because this is one of the first usable HomeAssistant projects that involve some electronics and physical devices. It works in 99% of cases.

There are some issues with it though:

  • The ESP32 board sometimes reboots after unlocking. It seems that the door solenoid relay draws too much current and the voltage from the power supply drops momentarily. Probably I need to add a capacitor to the board power input to smooth the voltage. This is not a big issue, because the board starts working normally after 3 or 4 seconds after the reboot.
  • Once or twice it happened the esp board relay got stuck in an OFF state. I had to hit it gently with a screwdriver to unstuck it. After that, I reduced the time the door solenoid is opened from 2 to 1 sec. Not sure if it will help. Maybe it’s just a bad relay.
  • Several times the wifi was down and the board couldn’t communicate with the Home Assistant. It looks like my telco provider’s router is not the best one and it freezes sometimes. Probably I need to buy a better wifi router.

TODO

I have several ideas on how to upgrade the unlocking mechanism:

  • unlocking with a fingerprint
  • unlocking with facial recognition

Disclaimer

The links to the products are not affiliate links and I don’t receive any compensation for linking.

The code and the ideas are mostly from HomeAssistant and ESPHome community forums.

https://blog.rozman.info/unlocking-the-front-door-using-the-mobile-phone-and-home-assistant/

doodle of the electrical scheme
the electrical scheme for wiring the door unlocking mechanism

tomi, to proxmox

(Link to the original blog post with a proper layout)

It’s a pity that doesn’t report CPU and other temperatures to .

I had several freezes of my old laptop that runs Proxmox due to a stuck CPU fan. I googled a bit and found an elegant solution for temperature reporting: a command_line sensor.

Nevertheless, it took several hours to configure it correctly (I forgot how to deal with ssh keys and similar).

This is the end result:

home assistant cpu temperature sensor chartThe procedure:

  1. I installed the ‘Terminal & SSH’ add-on in to home assistant.
  2. I created SSH keys, put them into /config/.ssh folder, and copied to my proxmox server. Read these instructions. I’ve put something like this in my HA Terminal addon:
$ mkdir /config/.ssh$ ssh-keygen <em># generated ssh keys and when asked, i enter the folder /root/config/.ssh</em> $ ssh-copy-id -i /root/config/.ssh/id_proxmox root@MY_PROXMOX_IP <em># copy keys to my prox server</em>$ ssh root@MY_PROXMOX_IP <em>#try out if I can log on without password prompt, then exit</em>
  1. I had to find out where my proxmox stores temperatures. I ssh’ed to my proxmox again, browsed folders and looked into files which one store temps. My AMD laptop stores it in /sys/class/thermal/thermal_zone0/temp.

It could be also …/thermal_zone1, 2, 3 or similar.

  1. Then I pulled temperature data via SSH to HA terminal:
$ ssh -i /config/.ssh/id_prox -o StrictHostKeyChecking=no -q root@YOUR_PROXMOX_IP cat /sys/class/thermal/thermal_zone0/temp

The command returned 52000.

Edited my configuration.yaml and added the sensor. This is a working code (as of Apr. 2024). I used tips from here (deprecated sensor) and here.

##################

Temperature proxmox

##################
command_line:
– sensor:
name: temperature_cpu
command: “ssh -i /config/.ssh/id_prox -o StrictHostKeyChecking=no -q root@YOUR_PROXMOX_IP cat /sys/class/thermal/thermal_zone0/temp”
value_template: “{{ value | multiply(0.001) | round(1) }}”
unit_of_measurement: “°C”

After 20 restarts of Home Assistant, it finally shows the proxmox CPU temp.

Bonus: here is a picture my homelab proxmox ‘server’ with external fans (because CPU fan is not working).

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/20240415_081455-1024x576.jpgBonus #2: A hypothesis: Fediverse is causing global warming! 😉 😉

When I publish a blog post, the WordPress Activitypub plugin delivers the post to the . This causes the CPU to heat to 75C+. I know it now, because I can track its temp. in HA.

The hypothesis is confirmed.

temperature chart of the CPU, a spike is detected at blog publish time, because of activitypub pluginhttps://blog.rozman.info/proxmox-server-temperature-tracking-in-home-assistant/

#2

image/jpeg
image/png

tomi, to 3DPrinting

material is one of my favourite materials for . During the last year I’ve printed some usable objects for home improvement.

Why?

  • it sticks to the plate really well
  • it is soft and flexible
  • it is weather and wear-resistant
  • it looks good
  • it doesn’t string (if there are not a lot of retractions or overhangs)

Material

I’m using Overture’s orange TPU.

Settings

I’m printing with the following settings:

  • printer: Sovol SV06 with Marlin
  • sliced with: Sovol Cura 1.7.2
  • material set in slicer: Generic TPU 95A
  • bed temp.: 60C
  • nozzle temp.: 220C
  • nozzle size: 0.4mm
  • layer height: from 0.15 to 0.3mm
  • speed: 40mm/s
  • infill: 10% except if stated otherwise
  • other settings: ‘arc welder’, ‘dynamic precision’ and ‘use adaptive layers’ turned on in Cura
  • hardware settings: I’ve loosened down the screw (spring) that pushes against the filament at the extruder entry. Otherwise, the filament will get stuck in the extruder gears.

Practical cases:

  1. Gaskets

tpu gaskets on the print bedA rubber gasket for my garden hose connector broke. It took me several minutes (ok, a full hour and 3 unsuccessful attempts) to match the dimensions of the original gasket. TinkerCad has a strange idea for doughnut dimensions, so I had to do some trial-and-error.

I tried out the gasket, connected the garden hose and it doesn’t leak. I had to stretch it to fit it in the hose connector crack, but it acts as a rubber – it’s a tight fit.

The black gasket in the image right is the original one.

3 tpu gaskets on the table, hose connector nearby

  1. Lawnmower tyres/wheels

The original lawnmower (Worx Landroid M700) tyres wore out after a year so I had to replace them. New ones are around 60€. If I print them I use 400g of material, which is ~10€.

Last year I printed them with and .

PETG wheels wore in 4 months.

Nylon wheels were a bit better, but printing nylon is a PITA. It pops and cracks while printing (water) and I never managed to dry it. After it caught moisture (after a day of printing), it was impossible to dry it. It surprised me that nylon is somehow dimensionally unstable. When I printed the wheels, it was very difficult to slip them on the wheel. After few days, the tyres were too big and floppy and I had to use small screws to attach it to the wheels.

This year I decided to use TPU.

lawnmower wheel 3d printing with orange tpuThe bed of my printer (SOVOL SV06) is just big enough to fit one wheel.

This time I used 30% infill.

The original model of the wheels (by Oscar78) has cone spikes. The one you see on the left photo has wider spikes. I achieved this effect by turning on the setting ‘Make overhangs printable’ at 8 degrees before slicing in Cura. So no supports are needed and the spikes are not so pointy as in the original 3d model.

If they’re too pointy, they catch too many leaves.

Worx’s lawnmower with new slip-on TPU wheels.

It works much better now. It doesn’t slip on the hill and the turns are smoother.

Side effect: the spikes aerate the soil.

lawnmower wheel mounted, orange wheel, orange lawnmower

  1. Filter enclosure for washing machine

Our ’s dishwasher (2002) microfilter enclosure disintegrated after 20 years.

dishwasher filter enclosure printed with gray-green plaFirstly, I printed it with PLA and … of course, it warped. PLA doesn’t like 55-60C and washing detergents.

This is the next attempt: I tried to print the same design with TPU, but it failed. If the object is tall, it starts skewing above ~5cm and the print fails.

I had to redesign the enclosure. I’ve split it in half.

failed print of dishwasher filter enclosure, orange tpu

dishwasher filter enclosure, orange tpu, filter mesh inserted, cylindric shapeFinally, both halves printed with TPU and assembled.

Infill: 100%.

I’ve checked it after 6 months, it didn’t warp and it holds the filter mesh in place.

  1. Handle bar protectors

These are slip-on handle bar protectors. The Piaggio MP3 is quite heavy and I already dropped it once while standing.

My design, the 3D model is on Printables.

handle bar caps printed with orange tpu, mounted

brake handle bar caps printed with orange tpu, mountedBrake handles got the protectors too. TPU is so flexible I could design it with a bit smaller hole. I could slip it on without problems and it holds in place for more than a year.

Moreover, the orange colour makes me a bit more visible in the traffic.

See how flexible TPU is.5. Pipes and connectors

IBC tank adapter, water tap (original model on Printables by draman87).

Why did I choose TPU? Because I lost the gasket and the TPU is flexible, so I don’t need a gasket between the printed part and the screw.

Cistern connector, orange tpu, mounted

  1. Door stoppers

door stopper in orange tpu, mounted on a door handleThis one doesn’t need a special comment. The door handle was hitting the radiator and TPU is flexible so… their encounter is soft and quiet now.

(original model on Cults3D by 1337-Gripz)

https://blog.rozman.info/3d-printing-with-tpu/

tomi, to esp32

TL:DR: I don’t know how, but it no longer works.

In the previous post, I shared the joy of making T5 2.13′ e-ink display finally work and show some sensor data from . The joy lasted only a week.

Yesterday I decided I’d print a nice case for it.

I found a great .stl on Thingverse (a snap case), printed it and carefully put the board in it.

Then I connected the USB power and … nothing.

Lilygo ESP32 board and 3d printed caseThe screen doesn’t turn on anymore. It shows three thin horizontal lines.

Otherwise, the board works okay – I checked the logs in ESPHome – and it shows no errors.

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/image-1024x553.pngI also noticed one of the elements on the board gets hot (maybe I didn’t notice it before).

I’m not sure what caused the failure. Maybe static electricity when I handled the board, maybe I pushed too hard when I inserted it in the case (but I didn’t push hard).

I searched if the screen could be replaced but found no useful info. It is glued to the board.

Maybe I’ll repurpose the board for something that does not need a display.

There goes 25€.

https://blog.rozman.info/how-i-killed-e-ink-display/

image/png

tomi, to android

If you have Amazon’s #FireHD (or any other #Android) tablet that shows your #homeassistant dashboard, you can make it talk.

I created a new automation (triggered by a motion sensor) which greets me when I approach the tablet:

home assistant automation screenshotI used the ‘Send notification’ action, chose the tablet and inserted ‘TTS‘ in the message field.

Then I switched to YAML editing, searched for the TTL and added two lines below it:

data:    tts_text: Enter text here

home assistant automation YAML screenshotThe result:

The tablet greets me when I approach itProbably there are better ways to do it, but this was the quickest method for me.

https://blog.rozman.info/how-to-make-fire-hd-tablet-talk-in-home-assistant/

#Android #FireHD #homeassistant

image/png

tomi, to homeassistant

One of the things that bothered me in #homeassistant for more than a year was the following: I couldn’t figure out why some entities/sensors can draw nice statistics graphs like this (with average, max, min values):

home assistant statistics chart of outside temperatureand some show only bulky history charts like this:

home assistant history chart of heat pump power#til Today I learned I have to add state_class: measurement to my template sensor definition in configuration.yaml.

screenshot of home assistant sensor definitionThat’s it! After I added this line (which I took from some example), and restarted HA, the sensor started showing statistics charts.

Disclaimer: I’m an amateur who is tinkering with Home Assistant only now and then since 2021. I have some background in programming – Basic, Java, C, C++, Perl, Python. I was a full-time programmer for approx. 7 years in 00’s. Yes, I read the official Home Assistant docs several times and I just couldn’t figure it out. I don’t know why I couldn’t figure out such a simple thing. Maybe I already dumbed down or the docs are not so explanatory…

https://blog.rozman.info/home-assistant-and-nice-statistics-graphs/

#homeassistant #til

image/png
image/png

tomi, to random

I’ve bought some #Ikea motion sensors for 8€ a piece.

Pairing to the network in Home Assistant and was somehow difficult, which is not usual for Zigbee devices (at least according to my limited experiences with them). Nevertheless, I succeeded in pairing them.

Unsuccessful attempts

Firstly I tried to pair the sensor with ‘Permit All’ for several times. Pairing failed. I noticed the sensor wanted to connect to my smart plug (SP-EUC01), not to the Zigbee stick (the coordinator). Somehow Aqara didn’t like it and rejected the initial Zigbee ‘interview’.

zigbee2mqtt error message - couldn't pairSuccessful attempt

After some tries finally the following method for pairing worked:

  1. Zigbee2MQTT: Permit Coordinator (forcing to join the Sonoff Zigbee Stick).
  2. Pressed the link button shortly 4 times (in 5 seconds). The red diode started to blink (fading) fast and then slowly.
  3. Placed the sensor a few (2) cm near the coordinator.

Ikea Vallhorn motion sensor and Sonoff Zigbee coordinatorThe initial step (‘zigbee dialogue’) was completed successfully this time and I was able to add them to the dashboards, automations etc.

Overall, the design of the sensor looks nice and smooth. On the backside, it has 3 buttons:

  1. Link – for pairing
  2. Timer (1 – 5) – probably to notify connected lights when to turn off (after 1 or 5 minutes). Not sure if this function works or even makes sense in Home Assistant.
  3. Light mode – to notify connected lights when to turn on/off (always, only at night). Again, this function is probably useful if you have an Ikea gateway and lights and not in the Home Assistant

Ikea Vallhorn with holderThe package also includes a holder and a piece of double-sided tape. The manual doesn’t include much information.

Automations

Why I bought this motion sensor at all? The initial idea was to turn on the Home Assistant dashboard (FireHD tablet) when someone approaches the fridge with the tablet attached.

The automation is simple:

If a motion is detected, then send a notification (‘command_screen_on’) to the tablet (running the #HomeAssistant companion app):

Home Assistant automation - turning on the screenThe automation works ok-ish.

Motion sensor log in Home AssistantIt detects motion and turns on the tablet, but the tablet screen turns off after a minute. I’ve noticed the sensor doesn’t send triggers every time it detects motion, only at the beginning of the motion and after the state is cleared (no motion detected). The states are:

Detected -> Cleared -> Detected -> Cleared … and so on

The effect: if someone is dancing in front of the sensor for several minutes, it will trigger only one time. Meanwhile, the associated automation will not be triggered again.

What I want (from the state perspective) is:

Detected -> Detected -> Detected -> …. Cleared -> Detected ….

I could prolong the screen on time, but that is not the best solution. I have to think about how to solve this issue. Maybe other types of motion sensors behave the way I want?

Ideas for other 2 motion sensors

Ok, this was the first motion sensor I put in use.

The second sensor I’ve put in my workshop to detect motion. I’d like to build a simple home alarm system. A few days ago I thought I heard someone opening doors and walking in my workshop. When I checked, nobody was there, but the unpleasant feeling stayed. So the purpose of the second sensor is to prove if I’m hallucinating and hearing voices or not 🙂

For the 3rd one, I don’t have an idea yet where to put it.

https://blog.rozman.info/detecting-movement-in-home-assistant-using-ikea-vallhorn-sensor/

image/png
image/png

tomi, to homeassistant

I’m using an Amazon tablet stuck to my fridge with several magnets and 3D printed case as a dashboard.

I read it’s bad for the tablet’s battery if it’s constantly plugged into a charger. Battery can swallow or worse.

So I installed Sonoff’s #ZBMini (Zigbee) smart switch into a socket where the charger is connected.

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/image-7.pngAdded it to Zigbee2MQTT and created 2 simple automations:

  1. turn off the charger if the tablet battery charge drops below 20% (image below) and
  2. turn on the charger if the tablet battery charge is above 80%

screenshot home assistant automation turn on smart switchI had to wait for more than a week for a battery to discharge and then automation triggered:

home assistant chart - battery charge, dischargeIt needed 3 hrs to charge the battery from 20% to 80%.

Good. I hope this mechanism will prolong the life of the tablet battery.

I only wonder why tablets don’t manage this kind of charging / discharging control by themselves.

https://blog.rozman.info/simple-tablet-charge-controller-using-sonoffs-zbmini/

image/png
image/png

tomi, to repair

As I wrote in my previous post I was so happy when I finally discovered what’s wrong with my 20yr old . A faulty microswitch. Except that it wasn’t. The joy was over after a day and the symptoms returned:

  • When the heater was turned on or off, the dishwasher stopped.
  • If I opened or closed the door or hit it, it started washing again.
  • The symptoms were not repeatable – sometimes it was enough to hit the door one time, sometimes 5 times.

I disassembled the dishwasher for the 23rd time. Added a bolt to a microswitch to keep it in place (it was a bit wobbly). Nothing. Still random disconnects.

I almost went crazy.

Lastly, I disassembled the control board.

There are a bunch of relays (4) and one transformer soldered on the board.

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/20240104_123200-1024x576.jpgI’ve run some advanced diagnostics (hit every relay with a screwdriver while washing).

Sometimes the left relay switched on/off, and sometimes it didn’t. So definitely, the vibration caused the switch. But which one is faulty? Again, there was no real pattern.

Lastly, I pushed the screwdriver between the transformer on the left and the relay (the one with the title NAiS 10A…).

Finally, a pattern! Whenever I slightly turned the screwdriver, which moved both elements, the relay switched the power off/on. Heureka! One of the contacts is bad, but which one?

I turned the board around and (still while running) I budged the relay and the transformer pins. On a second try, I found the loose one:

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/20240104_175511-1.jpg
The solder break wasn’t visible at all (and I used a magnifying glass). It was the size of a hair. Only when I touched the pin with a screwdriver and moved it a bit, it disconnected the electric circuit.

I resoldered it and now the dishwasher runs as it should.

So it wasn’t a microswitch. And also it wasn’t a relay.

It.was.a.pin. When the big(ger) current flew through it (8A), it randomly disconnected.
Damn.

P. S.: Wife knew the whole time. The first thing she said when the dishwasher started acting weird was: it is a ‘programator’ (a logic board).

https://blog.rozman.info/dishwasher-saga-part-3-it-wasnt-a-microswitch/

tomi, to homeassistant

Last month I learned about the integration which helps track battery change status in various devices connected to .

Today I installed integration (source) called ‘Battery Notes‘. After the installation and HA restart, it automatically found my battery devices ( buttons, magnetic door sensors, temperature and humidity):

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/image-1-1024x540.pngThese devices now have 3 new entities: Battery replaced (date), Last replaced (time since replacement), and Battery Type (e. g. CR….).

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/image.pngThe status of the battery’s last replacement is shown like this:

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/image-2.png… and the type of the battery like this:

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/image-3.pngThis integration is surely useful because I always forget what type of CR…. batteries should I buy.

I just hope I will remember to press ‘battery replaced’ in HA when changing the batteries.

https://blog.rozman.info/when-did-i-change-the-batteries-in-my-sensors/

image/png
image/png

tomi, to homeassistant

I’ve been running #homeassistant for 2 years now and have never dealt with breaking changes. Until today.

1st breaking change: #ESPHome entities are unavailable

After updating Home Assistant Core to 2023.12.4 and ESPHome to the latest (Dec. 2023) I’ve noticed ESP entities marked as ‘Unavailable‘. Moreover, all entities had duplicates in the entity list ending with _2.

Currently, I am using 3 ESP boards. One of them is a BLE tracker for Xiaomi temp. sensors. There are over 60 entities used in various automations. After the update, all these entities are not working anymore.

Luckily (and after some googling) I resolved this issue by simply:

  1. removing the ESP from devices:

home assistant - delete device2. restarting Home Assistant and

  1. re-adding ESP integration (it was automatically discovered and added).

All dashboards and automations are now working as yesterday.

It looks like ESPHome doesn’t like non-basic characters anymore. See the debate: Link 1, Link 2. I had some spaces, and parentheses in my ESP entity names, which probably caused this issue.

2nd breaking change: #ESPHome is now stricter at reusing pins

Another breaking change was in one of my #ESPhome boards that reused the pin name in the .yaml config file. I couldn’t install the ESPHome update on one of my boards because of the error:

Failed config sensor.pulse_counter: [source <unicode string>:84] Pin 13 is used in multiple places.

I went to Homeassistant –> ESPHome –> Edit, and then I updated and rearranged the code. I insert allow_other_uses: true and number: GPIOxx

- platform: pulse_counter    pin:       <strong>number: GPIO13</strong>      <strong>allow_other_uses: true</strong>    update_interval : 6s    name: "water pulse"    id: water_pulse  - platform: pulse_meter    pin:      <strong>number: GPIO13      allow_other_uses: true</strong>    name: "Water Pulse Meter"    unit_of_measurement: "liter/min"    icon: "mdi:water"    total:      name: "Water Total"      unit_of_measurement: "liter"

home assistant, esphome configuration screenThen I saved the config and installed it. Success:

esphome log window - compiling and uploading successfullySee the debate: Link 1.

Thanks to all forums and the community for the tips. Without them, I couldn’t solve the breaking changes.

https://blog.rozman.info/home-assistant-and-breaking-changes-27-12-2023/

#ESPHome #homeassistant

image/png
image/png

tomi, to homeassistant

In my previous post, I wrote about measuring the consumption of the dishwasher using a Tuya smart socket and Home Assistant. The bottom line was that buying a new one doesn’t pay off.

But there’s more to it. Knowing how much it consumes per washing cycle I found an issue with the door microswitch which caused 60%-100% higher electricity consumption. How? Read on 🙂

When I observed the power chart I noticed several spikes to 2200W:

home assistant power chart for one dishwasher cycleOk, I thought this was normal. Nevertheless, something didn’t feel right.

For several months the dishwasher had strange issues – it stopped working every now and then. A gentle push to the door reactivated it and it continued the cycle. Sometimes it continued washing after a while. It wasn’t a big issue, but quite annoying.

I suspected some kind of bad contact caused the pauses, but I couldn’t figure it out. Three or four times I disassembled the door and checked all contacts on the main board (right):

disassembled dishwasher doorDisconnected all connectors, bent contacts to fit tight, and sprayed them with contact spray, with no success. The dishwasher was still stopping randomly.

The last thing to try out was to fix the door micro-switch (the middle part):

white microswitch, dissasembled dishwasher in the backI couldn’t buy the part online (Bosch shop) or contact the official repairman (won’t pick up the phone). I could order it if I lived in UK or IE (for 50€), but I’m not from there and they do not deliver in EU.

I spent 2-3 hours googling and couldn’t find an online shop with spare parts that delivers across the EU. All national (EU) #Bosch online shops either:

  • don’t have the part,
  • don’t accept orders,
  • don’t deliver in other countries or
  • redirect to the local service phone number.

I found out it is a generic 16A 250V microswitch type D45X or D42X (for 10€) that also fits on Miele and other dishwashers. Finally ordered it from Amazon.
I received the microswitch 2 days later.
It’s almost identical to the original one (except it’s black), 5x cheaper and most importantly, it works.

2 microswitches, upper is black, lower is whiteAfter changing the microswitch the dishwasher runs as it should, without stopping.

I checked the power and consumption chart in #homeassistant:

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/image-28-1024x448.pngI’ve noticed there is only one spike now. The heater now heats the water only one time. A faulty micro-switch caused the heater to turn on several times.

What about the consumption?

Per cycle:

  • Before: ~1.3 kWh per cycle

  • Now: 0.6 – 0.9 kWh per cycle

The difference: 0.4 – 0.7kWh

Yearly (300 cycles):

  • before: 390 kWh / year
  • now: ~240 kWh / year

Difference: 150kWh (28,5€) / year.

This means the Tuya smart socket (~10€) + microswitch (10€) already paid off. Or will, in a few months.

https://blog.rozman.info/pimp-my-dishwasher-part-2/

#Bosch #homeassistant

image/jpeg
image/png

tomi, to homeassistant

Aliexpress Santa delivered a cheap (10€) Tuya smart socket (Zigbee version). I have several Aquara smart sockets (SP-EUC01) around the house that work really well in #homeassistant. But they cost 20-25€.

I wanted to test the #Tuya smart socket this time. Not sure exactly which model it is, Aliex… markets it as “Homekit Tuya Smart Zigbee 3.0 Power Plug 16A EU Outlet 3680W“.

Zigbee2MQTT recognizes it as TS011F.

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/image-23-1024x632.pngAdding it to my Zigbee mesh network was pretty straight-forward. I just connected it to the socket, activated Home Assistant -> Zigbee2MQTT -> Permit join – all and that was it.

It exposes the following functionalities: state (switch on-off), power outage memory (in case of power loss), LED, power measurement, current measurement, voltage measurement, energy consumption, child lock (not sure how it works) and network signal strength.

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/image-24.pngI connected my 20-year-old Bosch dishwasher to Tuya smart socket because:

  1. I wanted to measure how much electricity it consumes per washing cycle and
  2. to check when exactly it stops. It has some issues, sometimes it randomly stops during the washing cycle. A gentle door push restarts it. I’m suspecting a faulty door micro-switch, but I want to see the pattern.

I’ve run a ‘medium’ dishwasher program (55C) and here’s the graph of the power. When the heater is on, it reaches 2200W. When only a water pump runs, it consumes about 150W:

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/image-22-1024x410.pngTotal electricity consumption per washing cycle is 1.27 kWh.

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/image-25.pngI’ve checked new dishwashers and they consume approx. 0.8 kWh per washing cycle.

The difference between mine and new ones is ~0.4 kWh.

We wash dishes approx. 300 times per year. A new dishwasher would consume 120 kWh less per year. The current electricity price 0.19€ / kWh which means 22€ fewer costs per year.

A new dishwasher costs approx. 600€.

ROI would be approx. 27 years.

This means the dishwasher stays and I’ll fix it as long as I can.

https://blog.rozman.info/how-much-electricity-does-20y-old-dishwasher-consume-tuya-zigbee-smart-socket-test/

#homeassistant #Tuya

image/png
image/png

tomi, to esp32

This, my dears, this is how to fail spectacularly:
I wanted to measure my home’s water consumption and track it in Home Assistant. I failed (for now). Read on to find out what happens if you buy all the correct components, follow the instructions but fail to check the type of the water meter first.

I’ve found these fine instructions on how to build a device for reading water meter using a +magnetic sensor: https://www.pieterbrinkman.com/2022/02/02/build-a-cheap-water-usage-sensor-using-esphome-home-assistant-and-a-proximity-sensor/

I’ve followed this great manual and bought stuff:

  • board with a relay (relay is not needed in this project). Original instructions include ESP8266, but I went with ESP32 instead.
  • Magnetic sensor
  • Some cables

I’ve successfully completed these steps and felt very proud:

  • soldered 20+ pins (without cold joints!) on ESP32 and burned my fingers only once,
  • flashed ESP32 it with ,
  • connected cables (hmm, pins are different on my ESP32, there is no D6 pin, so I’ve just connected the black cable to G13 and hoped this is GPIO13).

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/20231211_201347-576x1024.jpg- Copied P. Birkmanns’ ESPHome configuration .yaml to Home Assistant ESPHome configuration

  • Changed his GPIO12 to GPIO13 (because I couldn’t find GPIO12 on my board)
- platform: pulse_meter    pin: GPIO1<strong>3</strong>....
  • Added devices to Home Assistant (pulse counter, pulse meter, ) successfully:

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/image-21-1024x839.pngTested the setup: Touched the magnetic sensor to a metal and HA started counting pulses.

Until now, all went great and I smelled a victory. But not so fast!

The last step was to attach a magnetic sensor to my water meter.

I’ve opened the water meter lid and found out it already has a strange plastic cover over the counters.

Tried to place the magnetic sensor over the rotating numbers, but I couldn’t.

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/20231211_201340-576x1024.jpgIt wouldn’t sense the rotating magnet no matter where I put it. The lid is on the way.

So, the first attempt to measure water consumption failed successfully.

Finally, I checked what was written on the blocking lid: It’s Diehl IZAR RC I G4 radio transmitter!

Not everything is lost. I’ve found that someone managed to read the transmitted signal and integrate the water consumption to the Home Assistant. So the journey continues (I’m already ordering the receiver component… 🙂

Now I just have to find out what to measure with a magnetic sensor. I don’t want to throw it away.

https://blog.rozman.info/the-water-meter-experiment-failed-successfully/

image/png
image/jpeg

tomi, to fediverse

Hi there! I’m trying to fix the plugin for therefore you will probably see some random test messages.

Sorry for that and please bear with me. I’d really like to make it work.

There is a glitch somewhere in my home lab setup and I am still searching for the pattern. Sometimes the posts federate (when I restart webservers), but after a while, they stop federating.

When I check debug.log, I see activitypub errors like:

[08-Dec-2023 08:50:02 UTC] Request to: https://mas.to/inbox with response: WP_Error Object(    [errors] => Array        (            [401] => Array                (                    [0] => Failed HTTP Request                )        )    [error_data] => Array        (            [401] => Array                (                    [status] => 401                )        )    [additional_data:protected] => Array        (        ))

https://blog.rozman.info/sorry-because-of-testing-messages/

tomi, to random

Yes, I managed to break it again.

https://blog.rozman.info/federation-test-8/

tomi, to homeassistant

I spent quite some time configuring the Energy dashboard in . My primary objective was to track how much electricity my home consumes, how much my micro produces and how much I return to the grid.

Finally, this is the result:

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/image-11.pngToday is a cold and sunny day, so my heat pump consumes a lot. My 800W solar panels and 600W grid-tied microinverter make only a dent in the overall consumption (~5%). The yellow circle and line show how much energy the sun produces and the purple shows how much I send back to the grid.

I want to send back to the grid as little as possible because I get nothing in return.

Now that I can track the exported electricity in Home Assistant, I see the results and I’m quite satisfied. For example, yesterday I consumed 96% of solar energy and returned 4% to the grid:

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/image-12.pngHome assistant calculates this value automagically, but I had to buy some sensors and create some ‘virtual sensors’. The following picture shows which sensors Home Assistant needs to correctly calculate all energy flows:

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/image-13-1024x864.png- Grid consumption sensor: I’m using a Tuya 3 phase zigbee clamp meter. I had to create additional ‘virtual’ sensor that adds solar production to the consumption. Reason: Tuya displays already reduced power (grid minus solar), because the inverter is connected to a house grid, which is after the Tuya meter.

  • Solar production: I’m using a smart plug (Aqara EU-SP01 zigbee) which tracks the production of my small photovoltaic system.
  • Return to the grid: This is a virtual sensor. I had to define it in cunfiguration.yaml. It calculates how much is returned to the grid if Tuya sensor reports negative power on phase B (where my PV is connected).
#export to grid - if phase b power is negative, then make it positive else export is 0  - sensor:      - name: "Export power to grid"        unique_id: "export_power_grid"        state: >          {% if states('sensor.tuya_power_b_patch') | float(0) < 0 %}                  {{(states('sensor.tuya_power_b_patch') | float(0))*-1 | round (2) }}          {% else %}                  {{'0.0' | float(0) |round(2) }}          {% endif %}        availability: >          {{ states('sensor.tuya_power_b_patch') | is_number }}        unit_of_measurement: "W"        device_class: power

How do I prevent exporting electricity to the grid? This is my first attempt: I created a simple automation which turns on water heating if export to the grid is > 150W:

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/image-15-1024x545.pngBefore I buy a battery system, I’ll have to think about some other ideas on how to prevent exporting to the grid… because what if the water in the boiler is already warm enough?

https://blog.rozman.info/energy-dashboards-in-home-assistant/

image/png
image/png

tomi, to homeassistant

The issue with spike power readings on phase B /

So, if you bought a cheap (~70€) Tuya 3-phase zigbee energy meter (with 3 clamps), you’ve probably noticed strange readings on a phase B and C (39xxx W) in .

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/image-3.pngTuya 3-phase clamp meter (zigbee)See the spike:

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/image.pngPower measurement with a spike because of negative currentIt happens to me when my micro-solar inverter exports energy to the grid and the power should be negative. It also happened when I connected the clamps wrongly. Be attentive to the white arrow (current direction) on the clamps!

I suspect that some programmer @Tuya used a wrong datatype (unsigned smallint) when programming a device firmware.

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/image-2-576x1024.pngTuya 3-phase clamp meter in a cabinetOther users have similar issues. There are some discussions (1, 2) on GitHub, the issue is stale and, obviously, it can not be easily solved in zigbee2mqtt component because Tuya reports wrong power measurements.

The workaround

I’ve created a new template sensor in the file (configuration.yaml) which subtracts 39330 from the reading.

#tuya patch, shows negative power if exportingtemplate:  - sensor:      - name: "Tuya power b (patch)"        unique_id: "tuya_power_b_2"        state: >          {% if states('sensor.tuyaelectricitymeter_power_b') | float(0) > 5000 %}                  {{(states('sensor.tuyaelectricitymeter_power_b') | float(0)-39330) | round (2) }}          {% else %}                  {{(states ('sensor.tuyaelectricitymeter_power_b') | float(0)) |round(2) }}          {% endif %}        availability: >          {{ states('sensor.tuyaelectricitymeter_power_b') | is_number }}        unit_of_measurement: "W"        device_class: power

This is not a real solution, but now I can see normal power values for a ‘patched’ phase B. I can use these patched values further (to calculate consumption, export etc.). Until a new firmware arrives (if ever), it’s good enough.

Otherwise, the integration works quite nicely and provides measurements like power, energy, current, frequency, voltage, power factor (not sure what it is) over all 3 phases, and also a temperature.

https://blog.rozman.info/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/image-1-1024x1024.pngHome assistant integration of Tuya 3-phase zigbee meterIf you have any ideas on how to solve this issue at its roots (the device)? Comment here or reply to the thread on Mastodon.

https://blog.rozman.info/tuya-3-phase-energy-meter-and-home-assistant/

image/png
image/png

tomi, to homeassistant

It was 1995 when I created my first homepage. It was called ‘Junkyard’, written in plain HTML and run on University’s VAX/VMS server. It’s long gone. Meanwhile, I’ve used other hosting places like Google’s Blogger and Linkedin. 28 years later, this is another attempt at my web presence.

Recently I’ve set up my own WordPress self-hosted server for 2 reasons.

  1. Because I can
  2. Because of the existence of ActivityPub plugin

Current stack:

  • A home server (10yrs old laptop)
  • Proxmox
  • LXC (Linux Container) using “Turnkey WordPress” image
  • NGINX for reverse proxy redirection of requests from my home router
  • DDNS (because I don’t have fixed IP address)
  • WordPress + ActivityPub plugin. So my posts will be automagically published to Mastodon and other Fediverse. Try if it works and follow me. Open your Mastodon and search for user: tomi@blog.rozman.info

To get to this point where the page is working and to setup everything, I needed about a year. I’ve been stuck numerous times. For example, I couldn’t connect WordPress with MySQL. Then my redirects weren’t working. There was a letter missing in NGINX web server configuration. Etc., etc.. I’m getting old.

Nevertheless, now I’m able to publish my brain farts and hobbies like smart home (#homeassistant), 3D printing and fiction writing.

https://blog.rozman.info/howdy/

  • All
  • Subscribed
  • Moderated
  • Favorites
  • •
  • JUstTest
  • mdbf
  • ngwrru68w68
  • modclub
  • magazineikmin
  • thenastyranch
  • rosin
  • khanakhh
  • InstantRegret
  • Youngstown
  • slotface
  • Durango
  • kavyap
  • DreamBathrooms
  • megavids
  • GTA5RPClips
  • tacticalgear
  • normalnudes
  • tester
  • osvaldo12
  • everett
  • cubers
  • ethstaker
  • anitta
  • provamag3
  • Leos
  • cisconetworking
  • lostlight
  • All magazines
    •